The Secret Life of Regenerative Cocoa (19459000)
No-till or cover cropping may be the first thing that comes to mind when one considers regenerative farming. You may imagine rows of plants in a field with biodiverse borders and wildflowers.
Regenerative agriculture can also be used in the tropics.
A prime example is the regenerative cocoa farm.
What is Regenerative Cocoa?
Regenerative agriculture is not a unified term, but the concept of protecting and supporting the environment through principles such as regenerative farming has become common knowledge.
Juliana Jaramillo leads regenerative farming efforts for the Rainforest Alliance. She says it’s a big mistake to limit regenerative agricultural practices to those that focus on soil, which are often framed in terms of ‘conservation’ agriculture. “Its roots run much deeper.”
The regenerative agricultural approach, also called’regenag’, is based on the principles that Indigenous peoples have been using for centuries.
It is all about cultivating diversity and complexity across ecosystems, from shade trees to birds and insects and diverse crops.” she explains.
In tropical landscapes, like cocoa growing regions in West Africa, regenerative agriculture is as relevant as it is to arable farms. In cocoa, regen ag practices aim to restore degraded land, make life more stable for farmers, and conserve biodiversity, says the RA regenerative agriculture lead. Restoring soil health and long-term fertility, while also reducing or eliminating pesticide use, is key.
The main difference between regenerative farming for crops and cocoa is that cocoa is all about agroforestry. While arable systems usually focus on things like no-till and crop rotation, cocoa farming leans into mixing cocoa trees with native plants, using cover crops, composting and managing shade to boost soil health and bring the ecosystem back to life.
Regenerative agriculture is as relevant to cocoa cultivation as it is to arable farming. (Lucy Brown – loca4motion/Image: Getty/Lucy Brown – loca4motion)
Many big-name confectionery makers are adopting regen ag practices in cocoa. Ferrero – which owns brands Ferrero Rocher, Kinder and others – is incorporating agroforestry farming systems into its cocoa cultivation.
“As a shade-tolerant crop, cocoa grows well in diverse farming systems where it’s intercropped with other trees, such as leguminous, timber, or fruit trees,” explains a Ferrero spokesperson. If done right, it can boost long-term fertility and biodiversity, store carbon, and help diversify a farmer’s income.
Why isn’t all cocoa grown using regenerative farming?
Regenerative agriculture comes with impressive track record for the planet. Research suggests that using regen ag principles not only matches the productivity of traditional agriculture, but can even surpass it.
“When survival depends on every harvest, shifting to unfamiliar methods – even if they promise long-term gains – is daunting and not always possible.”
Rainforest Alliance’s Juliana Jaramillo is the regenerative agricultural lead.
However, there are barriers to implementing these principles. Ferrero’s challenges are figuring out which methods work and assisting farmers to learn from one another. The spokesperson for the company says that choosing the best combination of trees, and designing the farm correctly is essential to regenerative farming being successful and profitable.
Farmers also face a cost when they switch from traditional practices to regenerative ones. Ferrero claims to work closely with its farmers along the supply chain in order to ease financial risks. However, RA still believes that this is one of the biggest challenges facing regenerative cocoa growers today.
Jaramillo, RA’s Jaramillo explains that most smallholder cocoa growers live near or in poverty. When survival is dependent on each harvest, changing to new methods can be daunting.
What is the solution? The regen ag specialist believes that farmers should be relieved of some of the burden, and that the transition to regenerative farming cannot fall solely on their shoulders. From farm to shelf, they need support.
Why should chocolate companies shout out their regen-ag practices to the world?
There is often no evidence that cocoa was grown for soil health and biodiversity once it’s been turned into chocolate.
On-pack claims of regenerative farming are rare. Should chocolate companies let their consumers know that they use regenerative agriculture practices?
(Image: Getty/EasyBuy4u) (Image: Getty/EasyBuy4u)
Ferrero is convinced that consumers want to know about the transition occurring on farms from conventional to regenerative farming practices. Ferrero releases reports regularly to inform people about the changes taking place on farms.
Other supply chain members also suspect that there is a growing consumer interest. ADM’s research shows that more than 50% of EMEA consumers are likely to buy food and beverages from companies who practice regenerative farming.
39 percent of respondents said that they are willing to pay more for local food products and beverages, which support farmers, as well as products with sustainable sourcing. 33 percent also said that they will be willing to pay a premium for products made from sustainably-sourced materials, while 21% would spend extra for products produced by regenerative farming.
Should companies be more transparent about their methods as more adopt them? Data suggests that yes. Storytelling will become increasingly important as regenerative agriculture grows. Chocolate brands and other food companies should bring the regenerative practices from the fields to the labels.